by Gert Fischer | Jan, 2025 | Bonn Sights, EN, exhibitions, museums, Rhine region
Lord Byron would have turned 200 in 2024. The Siebengebirgsmuseum Königswinter has taken this date as the occasion for an exhibition. Entitled ‘Too Beautiful – The English View of the Rhine’, it illustrates the beginnings and heyday of British Rhine tourism in the 19th century (until 9 March 2025). The importance of Byron in this context can hardly be overestimated. As a scandal-ridden influencer and pop star – at a time when these terms were not yet known – he shaped the behaviour and literary work of many intellectuals and some members of the English upper class. His poetry, ‘Childe Harold’, which, among other things, deals with the experiences of his 1816 trip to the Rhine, promoted the ‘romantic’ Middle Rhine Valley and, not least, the Drachenfels as attractive travel destinations. Added to this was the fact that after a 20-year interruption, travel on the continent was once again possible for the English with the end of the Napoleonic Wars. The Rhine Valley, which had been no more than a stopover on the ‘Grand Tour’ of 18th-century aristocrats on their way to Italy, now gained its own significance as a tourist attraction. The occasional trips of idle rich people and curious artists turned into a wave that soon brought many more affluent middle-class families to Bonn, the Siebengebirge, the Lorelei and the castle ruins of the Middle Rhine Valley – and from 1828, they could also travel by steamboat.
The small but exquisite exhibition at the Siebengebirgsmuseum focuses on the views with which British artists – led by William Turner and Clarkson Stanfield – fuelled the fashionable enthusiasm for the Rhine. It also includes caricatures that poke fun at the excesses of Rhine travel as it developed into a mass phenomenon. Obviously, even back then, there was something like ‘overtourism’ in the eyes of contemporaries. It is also interesting to see that most of the views were not so much the work of artistic self-realisation as commissioned works for publishers. They made money – even for those who did not have the time and means to travel to the Rhine. Enthusiasm for the Middle Ages and the romanticism of ruins could also be served in this way.
The publication accompanying the exhibition is more of a companion book than a catalogue. In 22 short articles by various authors, British travellers and artists are introduced and associated with their places of longing. This provides a picture of the developing tourist infrastructure and travel habits. Finally, it also becomes clear how the ‘celebrity factor’ kept the Rhine in the news. One section of the exhibition is dedicated to Queen Victoria’s journey along the Rhine – the title of the exhibition is a quote from her travel diary – and another is dedicated to the English crown prince’s stay in Königswinter in 1857; theoretically incognito, but in reality a public sensation of the first order.
Even if Bonn cannot be the focus of the exhibition, its role is clear enough. While the early travellers to the Rhine generally took Cologne as their starting point, this changed in the 1840s at the latest. That was when Bonn got its own railway connection. Furthermore, travellers’ reports gave Cologne an image problem: the city appeared to be interchangeable with other big cities, it didn’t smell good, it didn’t have a Rhine promenade, and the cathedral was (still) a ruin. Besides, the trip on the river from Cologne to Bonn was not attractive, as could now be read in travel guides. So you might as well board the Rhine steamer in Bonn. The city seized this opportunity: in the 1850s, the Rhine promenade was built and large hotels sprang up. One article in the accompanying book is dedicated to the ‘English colony’ that developed in Bonn in the 19th century. It certainly owed its existence not least to the university, but also to Rhine tourism and the associated boost in the city’s image.
A look back at the heyday of Rhine travel in the 19th century also evokes feelings of nostalgia. In my childhood around 1960, there were hardly any English tourists left, but the start of the shipping season on the Rhine was still a big deal. Every year on Holy Thursday, a brass band played at the ‘Köln-Düsseldorfer’ landing dock, and hundreds more stood on the banks to celebrate the occasion. A trip on the Rhine was often enough, what the flight to Mallorca would later become: the annual holiday. That’s how my parents’ honeymoon went from Bonn to Bacharach. And the Drachenfels (Dragon Rock) didn’t get its nickname ‘The highest mountain in Holland’ for nothing. All that happened a long time ago, but the Middle Rhine Valley and the Siebengebirge are still worth a visit.
On display at the Siebengebirgsmuseum, Kellerstraße 16, Königswinter, until 9 March:
by Annette Bohlen | Jan, 2025 | architecture, EN, points of interest, Rhine region
I remember well the cement factory, which was vacant in the 1990s (we called it the ‘ghost house’), which we had to go around on the bike path to Königswinter. Today, here – on the sunny side of Bonn – it is a very popular meeting place at the weekend. Cyclists take a break here, families use the lawns and play ground, and pubs and restaurants entice you with food and drink.
The history of the Portland cement factory ended in the 1980s. Then began a long and varied process of planning, tendering and competitions to determine what could be built there.

Rhine promenade with Portland Cement building in view
Finally, an outstanding example of the transformation of an industrial site was created – and is still being expanded – on a beautiful new Rhine promenade. Innovative architecture, sustainable urban planning and an attractive mix of uses blend well with the converted cement factory, a water tower and the former director’s villa.
Planning and conception
Planning for the Bonner Bogen began in the early 2000s and was overseen by renowned architects and urban planners such as Karl-Heinz Schommer. The master plan envisaged a mix of uses, including office space, hotels, restaurants and residential accommodation. A key element was the integration of the site into its natural surroundings, in particular by taking advantage of its proximity to the Rhine and orienting the buildings towards the river. The architectural design emphasised modernity and high-quality materials, while historical elements, such as the heritage-listed water tower, were preserved and integrated into the new buildings.

Sculpture “Mother Earth” by American artist Barton Rubenstein, in front of the restaurant Rohmühle
Particular attention was paid to ecological sustainability. The buildings were constructed according to modern environmental standards, with a focus on energy efficiency and the use of renewable energies.
Implementation and establishment
The construction phase began in 2004 and was realised in several stages. One of the first and most well-known buildings is the Kameha Grand Hotel, which opened in 2009. With its architecture and special interior design, it has become an emblem of the Bonner Bogen. It attracts not only tourists, but also companies for events and conferences.

“Ei” by Marcel Wanders, in front of Kameha Hotel
Numerous office spaces were built next to the hotel, which are used primarily by companies in the technology, science and consulting sectors. The combination of modern workplaces, high-quality gastronomy and recreational spaces such as the Rhine Cycle Route makes the location a sought-after place for companies and employees.
by Helga Moser | Nov, 2024 | Bonn Sights, culinary, EN, points of interest, Rhine region, tradition
When the days get darker in the dreary month of November and the wet cold dampens the mood, I go to the Christmas market before the winter blues gets a hold of me. Around the Münsterplatz in Bonn, wooden stalls are set up and create a cosy atmosphere with Christmas decorations and bright lights. The enticing aromas of mulled wine, cinnamon, roasted almonds and delicious food inevitably lift the spirits.
At the foot of the Bonn Minster, the city is teeming with life, but at the same time it feels homely . I feel transported back in time and imagine how our Bonn ancestors came to this square in the late Middle Ages to stock up on supplies for the coming winter, to enjoy good food and drink and, of course, to exchange the latest gossip.

Today, more than half a millennium later, it is not much different. In a large part of the 160 wooden stalls placed between Remigiusplatz, Münsterplatz and Friedensplatz, you can buy beautiful and useful items, including hand-made crafts, which make for great Christmas presents for family and friends. Here you will find unique items that are not available in the usual department stores. Inspired by the lovingly decorated displays, you’ll discover gifts that you would never have thought of while lounging on your sofa at home. For example, original jewellery pendants or maybe hand-knitted socks made of pure wool for your daughter, who always has cold feet? And for your girlfriend, who already has everything, a new Christmas ornament is always a hit! And of course, every once in a while I need a little refreshment. The Flammlachs (salmon cooked on an open fire) smells seductive, but I usually return to the Rhine-region classic, Reibekuchen, potatoe pancakes with apple compote. In addition, the sounds of Christmas can be heard from everywhere. The happy laughter of children coming from the direction of the historic carousel reminds me of the dear little ones in my family. For them, I have to make a choice between a handcrafted wooden toy and a cute Perlgraupentier (a figurine of a German miner). Slowly, the shopping bag I brought with me is proving not big enough. But I don’t need to worry because one of the traditional stalls has a selection of beautiful baskets: I have been eyeing them for a long time. No sooner said than done – now I just have to get the hand-made wrapping paper and my Christmas market tour will be a roaring success.
A toast is in order! Relaxing as Christmas approaches, I treat myself to an eggnog, a drink made from white wine, egg liqueur, vanilla and sugar, served hot and garnished with whipped cream. It actually sounds rather fearsome, but it is surprisingly delicious and hits the spot. The fact that I’m standing here alone doesn’t bother me at all. Because we are in the Rhineland it takes no time at all before I am chatting with a fellow eggnog-drinker about the Christmas season.
Of course, this will not be my only visit to a Christmas market. Like so many, I will meet up with friends for a mulled wine on numerous occasions throughout the season. It sweetens up the dreary weather – and when it’s bitter cold outside, the drinks taste even better!
And soon, I’ll be going to the Bonn Greeters’ Christmas market meet-up, which takes place every year. We’ll be swapping anecdotes and information, taking a stroll through the rows of stalls and sampling the wares at various stands. Of course, it’s all preparation for when we show guests around the market, as Christmas markets are one of the top points of interest.
The Christmas market is open until 22 December, with stalls open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and food and drink stalls open until 9:30 p.m. on Sundays to Thursdays, and until 10:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. And for those who don’t want to leave the cosy setting so quickly, Bonn Tourism has planned a Three Kings market this year for the first time, which will extend beyond the pre-Christmas period. It will take place on Remigiusplatz from 27 December up to and including Monday, 6 January.
by Helga Moser | Nov, 2024 | culinary, EN, Rhine region, tradition
For many years, Ingo Daniels has invited his former neighbours from Sonnenpütz in Bonn Kessenich to the annual Kesselskuchen meal. Here, hospitality meets Rhine region’s culinary delights. Traditionally, this Rhine region speciality is served on St. Martin’s Day.
In the past, goose was too expensive for the poorer population, so the ‘poor people’s meal’, the Kesselskuchen, was served.
The dish consists of: 
~ potatoes (mealy cooking variety)
~ onions
~ eggs
~ bacon (or sliced sausage)
~ salt and pepper.
The recipes, as well as the names of the dish, vary somewhat from region to region. Alternate names of the dish are: Döppekooche, Dippekuchen, Potthucke or Kesselsknall. To get a nice crust, the dish is prepared in a cast-iron pan (in a cauldron in the Middle Ages) and roasted in the oven at 220ºC for 2-3 hours.
I, the only member of the Greeter family living in Sonnenpütz, supplies the homemade apple puree that is often served with it. I make it using the old apple variety ‘Kaiser Wilhelm’ that are growing in my garden in Kessenich.
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